Splurging@Horizontal Falls

View on our way to the Falls

For the first time since our trip, we splurged on a 24-hour trip to Horizontal Falls. While it is a lot of money, it is a place we will not get to see if we don't. The Falls is only accessible by air and we won't get to experience the low and high tides if we don't stay overnight.

Disembarking

The entire trip is certainly worth it as it was jam-packed with activities and the cabin was quite luxurious. Our first mode of transport was a seaplane to the pontoon where we get to swim in a shark-free cage, watching the tourney nurse sharks.

Then it was a boat ride to our floating hotel, Faraday, anchored in Cyclone Creek. It is called Cyclone Creek as it is a shelter for boats when cyclones hit. The cabin was luxurious, the bar on the open top deck had great views and a nice area behind the boat to chill out.

The Faraday

Our first trip to the Falls was to view the outgoing tide. It is not a waterfall per se but was coined by David Attenborough to describe the tides going in and out from the bays through narrow gaps as water builds up faster on one side of the gap than the other, creating a waterfall-like effect.

Going over the falls

Narrow gap

After lunch of barramundi, we went on a fishing boat to try to get entrées. Unfortunately, our dinner was only 2 courses. While we did get bites, the fish outsmarted us.

View from above

We had the helicopter scenic ride to view the Falls from above to offset our disappointment of not landing entrée. We hopped on from the top of our floating hotel, which has a helipad! After the chopper ride, we packed the boat again to view the in-coming tide. The boat surfing the Falls reminded me of NZ Shotover Jet ride.

I am not a morning person but the offer to see the sunrise the next day was too good to miss. We were in the boat and on our way by 6am. Then it was back for breakkie before we headed off again for a final look and spin at the Falls. 

View from the top

At 9.30am, we boarded our flight back to reality but not before I get to see my first salty.

The resident salty at the Falls

Windjana

The Boab tree. A regular feature in the Kimberleys

With the change in our plan, we decided to camp at Windjana from Fitzroy Crossings. On our way there, we stopped at Tunnel Creek NP to explore the cave.

Entering Tunnel Cave

It was at Windjana that I saw my first crocodiles, albeit only freshies. Fresh water ones are smaller and not aggressive like their cousins, the "salties". Having heard so much about crocodiles, I have yet to see a salty.

Freshies lazing around the river

Explorer

Having had to stay in Kunurarra for extra days due to car problem, we had to skip the Gibbs River Road and head to Fitzroy Crossings to catch up with Mr Bwho used to work in Innamincka with us 3 years ago. He is now a Stockman at Brooking Springs, a cattle station just outside of town.

Can you spot the explorers?

One of the upside knowing someone like him is that we get to explore the property. It is a large area, stretching over 70km. Together, we explored the limestone caves. Mr B told us that he once found some wrapped up bones in a cavity. So, just like the explorers, we climbed up every cave we see and get to, not knowing what we could see or find. Unlike other tourist or public areas, we had the place to ourselves. There are a lot of hidden gems in private properties which is inaccessible to the public and we are fortunate to be here.

After a few hours, TJ and Mr B cooled off in a watering hole. As far as we know, fresh crocodiles don't really attack! 

People around = 0
Crocs = ?

Bungle Bungle - Purnululu NP

This is a world heritage area due to the area's natural beauty and geological value. The Bungle Bungle range is renowned for its banded domes of sandstone. 

Echidna Chasm

The drive in is 53km of corrugations and only for 4WD and off-road campers. So, we lose all the big rigs with grey nomads! We chose Kurrajong campground for 4 nights.

One day was spent doing all the walks on the north end, including the must-see Echidna Chasm. We spent more than an hour waiting for the sun at the angle where it lit up the chasm. We covered a fair mileage walking to Mini Palm Gorge and Homestead Valley. While they were around the same area, each place offers different perspective of the range.

Sharing travel stories at Bungle Bungle

After the northern side, we took the next day to visit the southern area. This is the part where you see familiar shots of Bungle Bungle, the dome-like sandstone features. 

Cathedral Gorge

Dingo got my shoe!

From Alice Springs to the Kimberleys in WA, we took the Tanami Road. It used to be called the Tanami Track but due to all the mines and road trains servicing the area, lots of improvements have been done. The road is over 1000km with more than 700km of gravel and dirt with bad corrugations.

After a full day's driving, we found a stop off the road and settled in for the night. We never leave food and rubbish out but in the morning, TJ saw a dingo or wild dog took off with one of his shoes! Fortunately, he managed to recover it before the animal chewed it up.

We crossed over to WA the next day. It was indeed strange to suddenly gained one and half hours back. On the way, we took a side trip to see Wolf Creek Meteor Crater. The crater was created when a meteorite hit over 300,000 years ago. To me, its just a big hole. Not sure if its worth a 40km diversion.

Wolf Creek Crater

Kings Canyon and West MacDonnell

Kings Canyon from the campground

After Uluru, we took to Kings Canyon in Watarrka NP, another 3 and half hours drive. There are not many campground choices and we went to Kings Canyon Resort as it was closer to the walks.

Lunch time at Garden of Eden

We did the Canyon Rim Walk,which is a 6km loop to the top of the canyon. It was very busy, which takes the enjoyment away. Lunch was at Garden of Eden, a water hole half way. 

Next stop was the West MacDonnell NP. Its a loop from Kings Canyon back to Alice Springs. The national park's campground is unique as every site has its own BBQ, 2 gas burners and tables/benches. Unfortunately, the burners were not working too well. No saving gas for us.

I took the lazy option of doing nothing while TJ went for a walk up to Mt Sonder. Its part of the Larapinta Trail from Alice Springs to the top of Mt Sonder. TJ did well taking 3 hours instead of the 6 hours as per the trail notice. The summit is over 1300m and is the highest mountain in NT.

Red Centre

We decided to take the long drive to Uluru after Edith Falls. Took us 2 days to get to Alice Springs. On the way, we stopped at Devil's Marbles outside of Tennant Creek.

Devil's Marble

We stayed 2 nights at The Gap View Hotel's campsite for a bargain price of $15/n. It is the cheapest in town as the other caravan parks were charging $50. We had the Sunday roast for $10. Temperature was a vast change from high 30s at Edith Falls to below 20 in town. The low in the mornings were between -1 to 1!

From Alice, it's another 365km to Yulara. We camped at Ayers Rock Resort at Yulara, which has luxury accommodation as well as campgrounds. It is about 30mins to Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park. Our first night, we drove to the car sunset viewing area for our first sunset at the "rock". 

The next day, TJ ran around the base of the rock, approximately 10.6km while I did the guided Maya walk. We saw a lot of people climbing the rock but we decided not to as asked by the original owners, the Anangu people. They are planning to stop the climb by October. 

Kata-Tjuta, Valleys of the Wind

After a visit to the Cultural Centre and lunch, we drove to Kata-Tjuta or known as Oolgas in English. We did the Valley of the Winds walk. 

On our way back, we decided to watch the rock glowing orange one last time. This time, we took the time to watch and soak in the transformation instead of busy taking photos.

Kata-Tjuta

Edith Falls

Edith Falls, plunge pool

There are 2 seasons north of NT, wet and dry. In the wet season, it gets an annual rainfall of 600 - 800mm between Nov to Apr. As a result, there are lots of waterfalls, springs and water holes. After Limmen NP, we went further north to Edith Falls, an hour from Katherine. 

Devil's Marble near Tennant Creek

The falls is located in Nitmiluk NP. It is one of the best campgrounds we have been to. It is a busy place and lucky for us, we got a handy tip from a fellow traveller at Tomato Island. The gate is only open at 10am but if you get there early and park in the carpark, walk around and choose your spot. You can always see someone packing up and then go to the office and book the site. We got there at 9am and picked a great spot. It had good sun for our solar, next to a green grass patch and near the showers and BBQ. 

There is a pool near the campground but we also walked up to Upper Pool as well as did a 8.6km return trip to Sweetwater, passing Long Hole Pool. The further the pools are, the less people.

Sweetwater Pool

Limmen National Park - Part Two

TJ cleaning the fish cleaning table

After a week at Nathan River Ranger Station, we were asked to be caretakers at Tomato Island or in its aboriginal name, Munbillila. This is a popular campground. This was unexpected assignment due to the last minute pull out by the planned hosts.

There is not much to do here relative to our work at Nathan. We only had to turn the sprinklers on/off, clean the toilets/showers and take the rubbish out to the tip and set it on fire. Other than these daily tasks, we were on site to handle queries from campers and whatever pops up.

The worst part of the job. Burning the rubbish

Bites

One downside of camping at Secret Fishing Spot was the insects. There were sandflies around and we found red bites all over us. Although we continued to apply plenty of insect repellent including 99% deet, the bites kept on coming. Unfortunately, we can't tell if they were new or previous ones. All I know is I kept on getting red itchy welts all over my body from legs, body, hands and neck! I have no idea how they get on to me when I have fully clothed. It could be that I am out there fishing when its dusk! This is a downside to fishing. The best times to fish is first light or last light.